Cruising the Saints

Cruising the Saints is the working title for the journal of my recent travel adventure.  We left on Sunday, February 9th for a 10:00pm departure from San Juan to the Eastern Caribbean.  The seven day cruise took us to five islands before returning to port the following Sunday.  We chose to stay an extra day, in part to save money on airfare, but also to take-in the sights of another "saintly" destination.

I plan to write in depth about the trip, and perhaps post a few snippets here on the blog as well, but for now I thought I would give a Best of... summary of the trip.

Day 1:  Departure

We had booked the trip over six months ago.  At the time, Geoff and I decided to try a balcony room - a slight upgrade from the ocean view stateroom from our first cruise last year.

As luck would have it... we received a call from Carnival on Saturday afternoon offering us another upgrade for an incredibly low price.  The room was a suite, which included a couch and comfortable seating for eight, plus a vanity area and desk, plus a bath with double sinks and jacuzzi tub, plus a double-sized deck area on the port side.  

While the room itself was far larger than we needed, I must confess that the double balcony was well worth every penny.  This was our view before leaving the San Juan port .... and an equally nice view each and every day.

Day 2:  St. Thomas

In preparation for the trip as well as my writing plans afterwards, I did some preliminary research for each island.  St. Thomas was probably the most commercial of the islands we visited, but I did learn that the 99 steps (which really consists of 103) offered a nice view of the port area, and for those who are so inclined, a tour of Blackbeard's Castle provided a historical perspective.

We considered two beaches:  Coki Beach, associated with the Coral World Ocean Park, and known for its snorkeling adventures, and  Magen's Bay which is considered one of the world's top ten picturesque beaches.  We opted for the latter and were not disappointed. 

The beach is small and one can easily walk from one end to the other.  We were surprised to find pelicans nesting in the trees above the rocks, and took great joy in watching them dive into the water for a bite to eat.

As a side note... the sun in the tropics is fierce and while I tried to stay in the shade the entire time we were there, the one-hour beach walk was too much for my sensitive skin.  The tops of my feet were burnt to a crisp.

Day 3:  Day at Sea

While St. Thomas is but a short 75 mile jaunt from San Juan, the itinerary for the rest of the trip was to travel to the southern most island and then backtrack home.  The total distance between St. Thomas and Barbados is about 500 miles, which takes the 3,000 passenger ship approximately 36 hours.

To be honest, I was looking forward to this leisurely day at sea, and in my element on the Serenity Deck (21 years or older) lying on the shaded couch reading and journaling to my heart's content.  There were plenty of on-board activities for those who desire a bit more excitement in life, and the food, of course, was never-ending.

Unfortunately, there was an emergency on the ship and we had to make a detour to Martinique so a passenger could receive medical attention.  We were very impressed with the constant communication that the ship maintained with the passengers, and with the dignity that was afforded the patient.

Day 4:  Barbados

We decided to try our luck and find a local taxi to give us a tour of the island.  They can typically be found in every port and at times can offer quite a bargain experience over the cruise-line excursions.  We were blessed to meet Colin within five minutes of arriving in the city.  Colin quoted us a three hour tour of the island, and noticing our cameras, appealed to our interests by promising to stop at all the best photo opportunities, including the Jewish Synagogue, and Parliament Buildings.  He was true to his word, and allowed to stay as long as we desired at each location.

In the end the three hour tour was actually four hours - and he took us to an unplanned stop at Bathsheba Beach - a true highlight of the island.  The large rocks, powerful waves, and smooth sand made for perfect photos and island relaxation.  If you are ever in Barbados.... definitely visit this serene piece of heaven on earth.

As a side note, all beaches in the Caribbean are public beaches, even those outside the swankiest hotels.  You may not have access to the hotel amenities, but the sand and waves are available to all.  St. James's Parish is the elite section of town and I am sure the snorkeling and swimming adventures are fantastic.  I was too burnt from the previous day's experience to take part in any sun-soaking beach activities.

Additionally, the beach closest to port is Carlisle beach.  I had read that sea turtles are prevalent and it makes for a great snorkeling activity.  Our traveling companion tried to snorkel out to the site on his own, but found it too difficult to swim against the waves.  I had read on Trip Advisor that "Nevile" offered a great deal and we did indeed see his boat carry out a family of four ... allow them to snorkel around the site... and brought them back to shore.  I would think it would be a good investment of time of money to search out Nevile, if you are so inclined. 

Day 5:  St. Lucia

In my preliminary research I learned that St. Lucia is probably the most diversified of the islands we visited.  Of course there is beautiful beachfront property, but in addition there is a drive-through volcano, a botanical garden with beautiful waterfall, several small fishing villages, and the Pitons, two large volcanic formations that rise large in the distance.

I also learned that the island is filled with hills, valleys and hairpin turns that can make your hair stand on end.  We decided that rather than take a chance on a local driver - we would splurge on a ship excursion and again... we made the right choice.  Our tour guide, Felixia (like Felicia but with an "x") was extraordinary.  Not only was she knowledgeable about her island, but her personality made us all feel like family.  

St. Lucia is sometimes called the Helen of the Caribbean due to its tropical beauty.... but there is also another side of the island - one that claims 25% unemployment in an economy that charges 15% taxes and has seen an increase of over 50% in utilities.  There is much poverty in this area and it is heartbreaking.  We visited the fishing village of Anse La Raye, where the panoramic views are spectacular but the lifestyle is depressing.  I do believe there were as many wild dogs and chickens roaming the streets as there were people panhandling their wares.

While we did not opt to tour the drive-through volcano (I was leary of exposing myself to the smell of sulfur, given my propensity to motion-sickness), we did see much of the island and then took a catamaran back to the port area.  As introverted as I am, I must admit that the deck party was fun and I was somehow coerced to get out and dance a bit myself.

Day 6:  St. Kitts

This island proved to be the biggest surprise.  Again, my research led me to believe that we might spend a couple of hours wandering the port area, but I really anticipated an afternoon of leisure on the Serenity Deck.  Instead, we booked another taxi excursion and saw a large part of the island that is not easily accessible otherwise.  

As is the case with most of these islands, they are formed from volcanic activity and there were several "black sand" beaches that offered a unique experience.  Unfortunately, most of these beaches are polluted and not fit to soak up the rays or swim in the water, but the views are still quite spectacular.

We visited a rum distillery on the Wingfield Estate, which used the islands native sugarcane to make the popular Caribbean beverage, and that was adjacent to the Caribelle Batik.  This was the highlight of the island for me - and I would highly encourage anyone to take the time to visit the beautiful grounds, watch the demonstrations and browse the lovely handmade items in the shop.  We only had ten minutes which we managed to stretch to twenty... but I could easily spend an hour or more here.

The most beautiful beach area was Frigate Bay, which is completely surrounded with upscale hotels and condominium apartments.  The setting is simply spectacular and the water is that perfect shade of turquoise that you think only resides in photoshopped pictures.  

As a side note, the port area is extremely clean and offers a wide variety of shopping.  The clerks are kind, courteous and not at all pushy.  The monkey men on the street, however, are a different story.  The native Vervet monkeys are adorable and the handlers take full advantage of their charming appeal to tourists.  They put the monkey on your shoulder without asking and then demand $2.00 for a photo opportunity ---  not a bad deal if you want the picture, but be aware of the expectations.

Day 7:  Sint Maarten/Saint Martin

This island was the highlight of the entire trip - as far as I am concerned.  It is the only Caribbean island that I would love to return and spend an extended period of time.

Now, I am sure that a portion of the love-affair has to do with the French influence, as many of the people speak the language and maintain the culture that I adore.  And the fact that tourism accounts for 100% of this island's economy certainly contributes to the friendly welcoming atmosphere.  There is so much to see and do on this small 37 square mile island that I could easily return for a week and not grow weary.

The island boasts being the smallest land mass that houses two completely separate territories:  Sint Maarten, the dutch land to the south... and Saint Martin, the French land to the north.  Boats dock at the southern end and a brief walk down the pier takes you directly into the heart of Philipsburg.  The closest beach to the port is clean, well maintained with plenty of chairs and umbrellas to rent, and a boardwalk that offers any and every restaurant and shopping experience you could desire.  Just a short walk from this location and you will arrive at Front street, which is a major tourist destination for duty-free bargains.

My preference, obviously, was to the north, where we managed to see the bi-weekly Marigot Market area (Wednesdays and Saturdays).  There are two distinct areas of the market:  food stalls selling fish and local produce/spices ... and then across the way there are booths selling crafts, clothing, art and other such items can be obtained for a good price if you like to bargain with the vendors.  We purchased a few watercolor prints among other things, and then treated ourselves to a couple of  macaroons and a tarte de pommes (apple tart) at an authentic patisserie.  Tres formidable!

The highlight of this trip was not the clothing optional beach nor the market area, however, but Maho Beach (Airport Beach as it is known by the natives)... where the planes fly overhead so low you think you can touch the wheels.  It is most definitely worth a visit.  I would recommend standing a bit further down the beach in order to capture the "money shot" of the plane's logo, but this picture is good enough for this first time visit.  Believe me, I will return.

Day 8:  Old San Juan

Debarkation for self-assist passengers (those willing to carry their own luggage off the boat) began at 7:00am.  We were downstairs by 6:50am which proved to be the ideal time.  We were able to board the elevator with little trouble and we passed through customs and were in a cab heading to the hotel by 7:30am.

I wish I could say the people we encountered in San Juan were as friendly as those of the other Caribbean islands.  Sadly, there were several who didn't seem to care if they helped us or not, and many spoke very little English.   We were unimpressed with the staff at the Caribe Hilton (whose daily rate of $199 plus per night should indicate otherwise)... however... the visit to Old San Juan was indeed worthwhile.

Since we arrived so early... and were not allowed to check into the hotel... we were in desperate search for breakfast.  We managed to find a terrific local place, Cafeteria Mallorca, which served good food, strong coffee, and a healthy dose of authenticity.  Afterwards, we enjoyed walking the cobblestone streets in search of the San Juan Gate and then we made our way towards the Fort del Morro on the grounds of the San Juan National Historic Site.  While we wanted to visit the Fort San Cristobal as well, our stomachs were crying for food and the crowds of the first annual Circo Fest were a bit overwhelming.

While I do enjoy history, I must admit that my favorite part of Old San Juan were the colorful houses, the Spanish architecture and the cobblestone streets.  I truly felt as though I had been transported to a different time and place --- so European!

In Conclusion...

We were quite blessed by the weather on this trip (when I reviewed the ten day forecast, all islands showed a high chance of rain but in reality, we only experienced morning rain in San Juan the day we left) and the moderate tourist population (many times we were the only boat in the port when research showed that often five boats are more visit these islands in a given day).  The accommodations were perfect and the travel companions ideal.  In fact, as we were waiting in the airport to return home, we were already perusing the Carnival website to find our next cruise destination.

And as a side note.... while we did not specifically plan this cruise to be a Valentine special event, we did happen to celebrate the occasion while in St. Kitts.  I have avoided the Pandora bracelet craze mostly because I really did not understand the concept but... duty free shopping has a way of opening my eyes.  Geoff purchased this bracelet and cruise ship charm on the actual day, and then we commemorated our love for St. Martin's by buying one additional charm.  Thanks honey... for a great gift that will be sure to keep on giving.

Warm Springs Ranch

Who doesn't remember this 2013 Superbowl commercial?  I still tear up when I witness the love between an animal and his human... even if it is staged for "Hollywood"

Warm Springs Ranch is the breeding facility for the world-class Budweiser Clydesdales, and we are fortunate enough to live only two hours away from its location in Boonville, MO.  But if you are ever traveling through the midwest, I would strongly encourage you to alter your route in order to pay a visit.

Because it is a working ranch and not simply a tourist destination, reservations must be made in advance.  It is an effortless process on their website, but weekend visits are popular, so don't procrastinate or you will risk a sell out.  The price is ten dollars per person plus a one-time transaction fee of $3.00 -- money well spent!  There are two tours offered each day, 10:00AM and 2:00PM, and each one accommodates approximately sixty people.  We attended the afternoon session on our way home from visiting our son and his wife in Nashville over Labor Day Weekend.  We were fortunate to have beautiful weather - sunny with a high of 82 degrees - but be sure to pack contingency clothes as the tours are never canceled due to weather.

While the ranch is conveniently located about five minutes off the I-70 highway, there is no signage or commercial advertising to direct you to its exact location.  Be sure to plug the address into your GPS system before making the exit (25270 Highway 98, Boonville, MO 65265)  The gates to the ranch remain closed until a few minutes prior to each tour when one of the four trainers will meet each car, double check the reservation roster, and allow admittance.

The long driveway to the main building is edged on either side with white picket fences, and there are plenty of clydesdales roaming the pastures to greet visitors in an authentic way.  The well-manicured lawn, coupled with the traditional fencing and red barns help to recreate a postcard image of days gone by - a time when life proceeded at a slower pace and simple joys were truly appreciated.

Pregnant mare ... due any day

The tour begins at the main building inside what is called the "breeding room" - and yes, it is exactly what it sounds like.  I will let the tour guide give you a play-by-play description of the five minute process, but the room is often used since there are approximately 40 breeding mares kept on the ranch.  The gestation period is approximately eleven months, after which the mares are allowed thirty days to recover and then they are ready to mate again.  The ranch also houses 3-4 stallions who seem rather pleased to have secured such a plumb job.

After a general overview of the breeding process and the inner workings of this ranch, the tour proceeds to the Pre-foal area where pregnant mamas are preparing to give birth.  There is a separate exercise area outside for these mares to roam, but as you can imagine, they are more interested in resting in the shade.

Bathing area

The next stop is the washing area, where we were shown how the clydesdales are bathed.  Their white legs are washed daily, and they are given a full bath about once a week.  The trainers give the tours and so they are quite knowledgeable about all aspects of these beautiful creatures.  Guests are encouraged to ask questions throughout the tour, and at times the trainers seem disappointed if none are forthcoming.

Pebbles and Paris

The tour then returns outdoors where the trailer trucks that transport these animals are parked.  Warm Springs Ranch is strictly a breeding farm; training occurs in New Hampshire.  If a colt is selected to be worthy of becoming a Budweiser clydesdale (he must have the right coloring, be the right height, and have an appropriate disposition) he is first neutered (poor guy...) before proceeding to training.  Once ready,  these geldings are then dispatched to one of three different "hitching" sites:  Merrimack, NH - Grant's Farm, MO - Ft. Collins, CO.  Those colts who do not make the cut are sold; they cannot be used at Warm Springs due to inbreeding issues.  The fillies remain on the property to begin the mating process when they are old enough.

The highlight of the tour, however, occurred at the end when we were fortunate enough to see a two week old filly and her mother.  We learned that the naming process of the foals is unique in that the first name of each baby begins with the same letter as its mother.  In this case the mare, Pebbles, gave birth to Paris.  Paris was asleep for most of our tour, but she did wake up long enough to nurse for a few minutes.

We were also able to visit Hope in that same hallway - the filly from the Super Bowl commercial.  I have a feeling she knows she is something special, but the fame has not gone to her head.  She was a little camera shy, but seemed at-ease with visitors.  We were allowed to remain in this area as long as we liked, since it was the last stop on the ninety minute tour.  We concluded by returning to the breeding room where free beer was distributed to those who wanted it and met the minimum drinking age.  In addition, a photo opportunity was available with the handler and one of the champion stallions.

Those who know me know that I am an animal lover.  And while I have a soft spot for dogs, I must say this visit to the ranch has helped me to appreciate the grandeur and splendor of horses as well.  I have a feeling I will return to Warm Springs on another visit to St. Louis or Nashville, and I am sure that it will be just as special as this one.

Getaway to St. Louis

My summer vacation is quickly coming to an end.  I consider this my last full week of freedom as next week I will ease into the academic routine by cleaning up syllabi and revising a few assignments.  The following week teachers will report to school and I am sure to have several meetings scheduled here and there.  Then the 2013/2014 school year will begin on Wednesday, August 21.

So, as a final celebration my husband and I took a long weekend trip to St. Louis.  It is an easy four hour drive across I-70, which allows us to feel as though we truly get away without feeling as though we spend the entire time in the car.  We first discovered the value of a St. Louis vacation three years ago as we were looking for an inexpensive way to celebrate our anniversary.  Since that time, we try to return at least once a year.  I thought I might share some of our favorite spots for any of you who may wish to visit this "Gateway to the West" some day.

While we did not visit the St. Louis Zoo this time, it is definitely at the top of my "must see" list.  The zoo is free to the public, although the convenient parking lot does charge $15 per car (an expense that we gladly pay as the alternative, on-the-street parking, is nothing short of a nightmare.  We did discover that a Trolley system runs throughout Forest Park, which allows unlimited rides for $2.00 - a fee that we will take advantage of the next time we are in town).

The zoo is easy to navigate and most animals are housed in a "natural habitat" environment.  My favorite exhibit is the Penguin igloo... where the tuxedoed birds are allowed to strut their stuff to the merriment of onlookers.   A close second favorite, however, is the Prairie Dog exhibit, where the furry rodents are constantly scurrying from burrow to burrow playing hide-and-go-seek with one another.  This year the zoo opened a new Sea Lion exhibit that I am sure will become my new "favorite" attraction.

The next time we visit the area, I think we will plan a full day's itinerary in the Forest Park complex.  From the zoo we will probably catch the trolley and enjoy a lovely lunch at the Boathouse Restaurant which is situated in a serene setting next to the lake where pedal boats may be rented for a leisurely ride on the water.  After lunch (I think the salmon BLT sounds quite yummy...) we will once again catch the trolley and take it to the St. Louis Art Museum, which is also free to the public and houses quite an impressive collection.  However, I am most anxious to visit next spring when the Impressionist France:  Visions of Nation from Le Gray to Monet will be showing.

This particular trip we visited several sights for the first time.  One of the highlights was to see a baseball game at Busch Stadium.  Let me tell you.... Cardinals' fans take their baseball seriously!  Hundreds of people in a sea of red were waiting outside the gates at 3:30 for a 6:10 game.  So after a quick walk around the stadium we went inside to watch the opposing team, the Philadelphia Phillies, batting practice.  We could not have asked for more perfect weather:  sunny, slight breeze, and a high of 84 degrees (in the middle of July?!).  And as an added bonus... It was Christmas in July at the ball game which meant Christmas carols were played between each inning and a festive spirit was everywhere.  I happen to enjoy baseball, so I have a feeling we will be going to at least one Cards game a year from now on.

I also saw the Gateway Arch for the first time and it is truly stunning.  Located deep in the heart of the city but on the water's edge, the arch was quite spectacular set against the bright blue sky.  We did not venture to the top, but we did take a one-hour river boat cruise aboard the paddleboat, Tom Sawyer, that took us about thirty minutes north on the Old Mississippi and then back again.  It was another fantastic weather day and the boat ride was the perfect way to spend a Saturday morning.

Instead of the zoo, we decided to visit Grant's Farm this trip.  This 280-acre farm, located in the middle of a bustling metropolitan suburb, was the home to Ulysses S Grant and is now home to the World famous Clydesdale horses as well as many other species of wild animals.  There is no cost of admission, but parking is $12 per car.  There is a required tram ride that takes you through the safari-like setting of the outskirts of the land where the large animals roam free, and then it lets you off in the interior where petting zoo animals reside as well as other interesting creatures such as the wallaby, lemurs, peacocks, and my favorite, the American Bald Eagle.  While I would say this is definitely an attraction that is worth a visit, especially for young children, I would also say that once is enough.

But the true highlight of our visits to St. Louis is the opportunity to go back in time ... and visit the Little Italy of the midwest.  Fondly known as The Hill.... this approximately six square block area is as close to the "old country" as we have seen since living on the east coast.  Pride in their Italian heritage is evident at every corner where the fire hydrants are painted in the familiar green, white, and red of the national flag.  The small row houses, which consist of a modest 2-3 bedrooms, kitchen, living room, bathroom, and front porch ... are well maintained with an individual personality reflecting its owners: some have beautiful flowers blooming in hanging baskets, others have decorative bird baths, and most have some statue of the Virgin Mary.

There are numerous restaurants that offer authentic Italian cuisine in comfortable, unpretentious surroundings; and there are two Italian delicatessens (Viviano and Sons and  DiGregorio's Market) where we go to stock up on essential ingredients such as cans of olive oil, shaved parmesan cheese, and anchovy paste.  The last stop of every visit is the Missouri Baking company.... a rather domestic name for the most authentic Italian cookies and pastries found anywhere.  While cannolis and panettones can be found at most any Italian bakery, this small establishment also offers such unique items as sfogliatelles and traditional Italian cookies which are sold by the pound:  the heavier cookies (such as biscotti) are on the bottom shelf and should first be selected to go in the one pound box, with each row of cookies being a little less heavy and more delicate to place on top.  This always provides us with a tasty snack for the four hour trip back home.

Writing Projects: Travel Journals

Today's entry is a coming together of data from a variety of sources which have inspired me to create as well as move forward in my writing endeavors.  Chronologically, this is how it all melded together.

In January, 2012, I took an online travel writing class with Dave Fox, the author of Globejotting, a book I enjoyed reading prior to my trip to Paris.  In that book, Dave not only taught how to maintain a travel journal while on vacation, but he also encouraged pre-journaling as a way of exploring expectations and increasing anticipation prior to a trip.... and then post-journaling as a way of slowing down the memories and writing with depth of insight and awareness.

At the beginning of the summer I began an online journaling class from Susannah Conway in which she encouraged participants to maintain an every day journal as well as a "dream" journal.  I struggle greatly with the concept of dreams:  I rarely remember my night dreams once I wake up, and I keep a close rein on those I might ponder during the day.  I fear they would only lead to disappointment.  BUT... I do allow myself to dream of future vacation destinations.  I filed away her information, but chose to focus on the daily journal for the time being.

In June I took a Travel Writing class at the Iowa Summer Writing Festival and through a series of writing prompts, solidified my travel dreams. Perhaps I will share the full essay in this space another time, but for now, I will just share the essence:

I do not yearn to travel the world.  It is not because I do not find other cultures worthy of visit or study, but it is because I wish to become intimate with every place I visit, and that is simply not possible on a breadth scale.  I suppose my travels mirror my friendships:  I would prefer to have a few intimate friends than several casual acquaintances.  I wish to travel and live and fully know a few cultures than experience the tourist relationship of several.

 The essay focused on four distinct places:  New York City... Paris... London... and Italy (I simply cannot narrow the choice to just one city in this captivating country).  But my desire goes beyond a short-term visit... that is simply not enough for me.  I yearn to take up residence for at least three months in each of these locations and experience the daily life as a native.  The class comments I received after sharing my piece were, "You write with such conviction... you will make this happen."  And that got me thinking....

Rather than creating one all-encompassing dream journal, I will create a dream travel journal.  And rather than cramming all the dreams into one large journal, I will develop one for each destination.  And rather than using collage materials culled from magazines, I would use my own photographs, and stickers, and paper collected for scrapbooking projects.  The wheels started turning... and the project took shape.

I already owned the photo boxes from an impromptu purchase two years ago.  I have quite the collection of decorative card stock and scrapbooking embellishments for imagined projects that have yet to take place.  My collection even extends to a few rubber stamp sets that embody the passion to travel.  I had recently purchased the "perfect" journal for New York City, and knew that others must exist for different popular cities.  It was all coming together:  the dreams, the supplies, the desire, the determination, and the purpose.  

While the timing of these extensive travels might be several years away, I can fan the flame in the present.  I can do some post-journaling of past trips and delve into the inner journey experience as well as recall the sensory details of the physical trip.  Using the decorative items, I could have some fun by adding color and whimsical images.  I could also do some pre-journaling exploration of what I would hope to accomplish by living as a native in these iconic cities.  And all of this activity would help me to hone my skills as a writer.

I have attempted arts and crafts too many times to trust myself to follow through on a project of this magnitude.  So I tried to develop a system to manage the process.  Each box is a self-contained unit with a pair of scissors, adhesive, and journaling pen; paper, stickers, stamps, etc that are focused on its particular region; and decorative washi tape in coordinating colors.  When the mood strikes to write about a particular experience... London for example... I need only grab my London box to capitalize on that thought.  

The supplies in the Zabar's bag (one of my favorite foodie shops on the Upper West Side of Manhattan) are general travel decorations, as well as useful cutting tools to trim paper or photos.  This bag will also be useful to the process, and allow for easy transport.

So while the days of carefree travel to exotic destinations may be a little ways off, the inspiration to make such trips a reality is right at my fingertips.

Travel Writing ... Final Post

I am on my way home from Iowa City.  It is approximately six hours door to door and I am sure that Geoff and I will talk, listen to tunes, and observe the flat green landscape as we contemplate separate thoughts.  It was a great weekend get away, but I am ready to return to the familiarity of home, and spend some time unpacking all I have learned this weekend.

In the meantime, I thought I would share one last writing prompt (we did more... but some are not worthy of public display...)

The instructions were to follow the format of a published essay by David Franzen, where he gives specific facts about place in the first paragraph, introduces the character of the narrator in the second paragraph, and finally develops the main idea/theme in the third paragraph.  Here is my attempt:

Manhattan Island

The Big Apple:  a rather interesting nickname for a city that houses more skyscrapers than trees and more asphalt than grass.  No, The city that never sleeps is a more apt description for this sprawling metropolis, covering three hundred square miles and incorporating five distinct boroughs.  But when you hear New York City the first image that typically pops into mind is the lights, sounds, and smells of Times Square located in the center of Manhattan, an island that only measures 13.4 miles long and 2.3 miles wide, but houses about 1.6 million people.  With limited surface area, the only way to accommodate this growth is to build up… and up they did.  Multi-storied buildings of brick, granite, and glass surround you; sidewalks are crowded with rushing commuters and tourists weaving in and out and around one another; streets are congested with cars, buses and bright yellow taxis.  It is easy to feel overwhelmed when you witness the city from this bird’s eye view.  But move in closer, take a side street, and you will discover the individual neighborhoods, each with its own distinct cultural flavor and population, that make this impersonal city a welcoming home.

The year was 1984 and we had been married for two years living in Connecticut.  Geoff had been making the one-hour commute into the city that entire time, and I had been doing the same for about nine months.  The fourteen-hour days and frequent train delays were taking their toll, not to mention the $250 monthly commuting expense.  We decided that it was time for a change, and three months later we were moving into our one-bedroom coop apartment at 160 Bleecker Street.   Located in the heart of Greenwich Village, home to NYU, Washington Square Park, and numerous jazz and comedy clubs, the area was always buzzing with people, especially on the weekends.  But during the week, the village was surprisingly suburban:  commuters walking to the subway, mothers strolling their infants, children in uniform making their way to school.  Greenwich Village has a distinct Italian flare, and we took full advantage of the freshly baked bread at the local bakery, the homemade mozzarella and salamis at the corner butcher, and the hand cut pasta at Raffettos around the corner.  Each summer the Feast of St. Joseph would take place on Sullivan Street, just one block to the west and two blocks south of our apartment.  For several days the vendors would line both sides of the street, selling authentic sausage and peppers, stuffed calzones, or my favorite, zeppoles… little fried pieces of pizza dough doused in powder sugar and served in a brown paper bag.  I am fairly certain that an over-indulgence of this craving caused me to go into labor with my first child.  We were a part of this community for four years, and looking back, I can say with assurance that it was the best four years of my life.

I have a dream to return to New York.  Not in an effort to relive those glory days, but rather with a desire to rediscover new ones.  I will sublet an apartment, but not in the village - perhaps on the upper west side, walking distance to Central Park, or Murray Hill, where good friends currently reside.  I want to experience a new neighborhood with a different flare.  Revisiting a few of the old haunts, or at least those that are still around after three decades, will certainly be on the list, but I also want to take time to become intimately familiar with new ones that speak to my current passions and desires.  Walking will once again become my primary mode of transportation; I plan to leave my car in Kansas.  The local market will play an integral role in my daily menu planning.. I will explore the park and find a bench that has been waiting for me to return after all these years, and just sit, observe, and write.  One true highlight will be to take advantage of the rich artistic culture of the city, something I took for granted before, and therefore never made time to visit.  I will become a member of the MET and visit any time I have just a couple of hours to spare, and I will frequently visit the other museums in the area as well.  I may even take a photography class at the New School like I did so long ago when I was indulging my new-found interest in cooking.  With so much to see and do and experience, I hope that I have enough time.

New York City is known as the great melting pot of America.  It represents the pilgrimage that so many immigrants took to find a better life.  This is the nickname that resonates best with me.

Travel Writing ... A bit of sharing

So... the class ended today.  Rather abruptly I might add, but I think that might be a good thing.  We were in the midst of sharing and all of a sudden the instructor announced that it was 4:00PM and we had to conclude the session.

It was a wonderful first-time writing conference experience and I am blessed to have had a dedicated teacher and a welcoming group of class participants.  I will definitely plan to return next year.

In the meantime, I thought I might share a couple of writing pieces from the weekend.  Please understand that these were written in a fairly short amount of time (one in five minutes, the other in less than an hour)... but the comments from the class let me know that I was on the right track... for me.

How did I get here?

I am on a scavenger hunt:  a search for me that was lost somewhere between high school graduation and becoming a grandmother.  A search for a person and not just a role to fulfill.  So in order to move forward, I must look back - rediscover the passions of long ago.  Music - French - Travel have all been a part of me for as long as I can remember.... but have lain dormant while I have tried to raise a family and entertain a part-time career.

When I read about the Travel Writing course it seemed to be a necessary item to add to the scavenger's list.  Writing is a way I process life... travel is a way I desire to see how I connect with others and have a place in this world... And Gettysburg College** brings me full circle to a time when I knew who I once was.

** of special note... the instructor for this course is currently a professor from Gettysburg... the college from which I graduated in 1982.

Why do I travel?

When I was eight years old two events happened almost simultaneously.  I began French lessons in second grade and I was introduced to the term, “Junior Year  Abroad.”  The passion to travel and relate to others in their native tongue was ignited and while the fire may have subsided throughout the years, it was never fully extinguished.

I do not yearn to travel the world.  It is not because I do not find other cultures worthy of visit or study, but it is because I wish to become intimate with every place I visit, and that is simply not possible on a breadth scale.  I suppose my travels mirror my friendships:  I would prefer to have a few intimate friends than several casual acquaintances.  I wish to travel and live and fully know a few cultures than experience the tourist relationship of several.

I desire to travel to England, and since I am already familiar with the language, I desire to become intimate with the people and the terrain of the British novels that I teach in school.  I want to experience the home where Jane Austen revised her works while looking out the window of the Chawton estate; I want to see the moors that the Bronte sisters immortalized in their novels; I want to walk the streets of Dickens and Shakespeare and Woolfe.  I want to attend Oxford, if only for a day, and imagine meeting CS Lewis and JR Tolkien on their way to class.  I want to breathe in this history because I believe it will make me a better teacher.

I have always had a fondness for French and while I have had the pleasure and opportunity to travel to Paris three times in my life, I still yearn for more.  I want to spend months in Paris, walking the cobblestone streets of yesterday and visiting the birthplace of Impressionism.  I want to see these works of art up close, witnessing each stroke of the brush and each blending of the paint.  I want to visit the street markets of today that mirror the same markets of a century ago.  I want to sit in the Tuilleries Gardens and watch young mothers interact with their toddlers, much the same way I interacted with my daughter in Washington Square Park.  And I want to visit the literary cafes of Hemingway and Hugo and Dumas and sip on espresso while writing my own manuscript.

Italy has such deep meaning to me.  Not only do I love the food and wine, but I married an Italian… 100 percent.  And I would love to find the birthplace of his maternal grandparents in Calabria and of his paternal grandparents in Foggia.  I want to learn the language and speak with these distant relatives the way that I would speak with my own aunts and uncles.  I want to mine the rich genealogy of this family to leave as a legacy for my own children – so they can pass it along to their children.  I want to see the ancient ruins of Rome and the romantic canals of Venice; I want to visit the remains of Pompeii and swim in the Agean Sea.  I want to learn to cook authentic Italian “gravy” and watch the first press of virgin olive oil.  I want to stomp the grapes of chianti and pair a glass with the perfect slice of aged romano and a hearty crust of bread.

I have dreams of traveling in America as well.  I do not believe that the only worthwhile destinations lie across the pond.  I would like the opportunity to live one more time on the island of Manhattan.  I lived there once as a newly married couple and I would like to return again, as a newly retired empty nester.  I want to take advantage of all the cultural opportunities that eluded me the first time… and I want to fully appreciate the vitality of the city that never sleeps.  I will shed my car for a good pair of sneakers and my four bedroom house for one bedroom walk up.  Each day will indeed be a new experience and I will not take for granted any opportunity that comes my way.